The Sea Baron

The latest addition to my wardrobe.

Shopping and food are two great obsessions. During my time in Reykjavik, despite a busy schedule of tourist jaunts, studio visits and evening shows, there were numerous opportunities to explore what the city had to offer from a retail and stomach point of view. Two highlights were KronKron and the The Sea Baron. The two combined when I wore my store purchase as I slurped over the tastiest soup imaginable. Heaven.

The first Kronkron store opened its doors in 2004 and it has since evolved in to the retail destination of the city. Run by the lovely husband and wife duo, Hugrun Arnadottir and Magni Thorsteinsson, the store started out with a few up and coming designers including the likes of KTZ, Marjan Pejoski and the Danish brand Wood Wood. It quickly grew and took aboard more labels such as Eley Kishimoto, Roksanda Illincic and Henrik Vibskov. By 2006, the concept had outgrew its cosy space and moved to a much larger space on Laugavegur 63. Today, the space is a fun mixture of established and emerging designers. The offering is a cacophony of colours and styles. Both myself and Susie were like two kids in a sweet shop filled with treats and we gleefully bounced from one well stocked rail to another. Now, Susie walked away with two bags full of Kron by Kron Kron shoes and garb but I was much more reserved but equally as happy with my blue twisted Steven jumper by Velour. As with all new purchases, I wore it the very next day which saw me explore another of the city's gems in The Sea Baron.

This brightly painted turquoise fish shack sits on the harbour among Reykjavik�s fishing trawlers and whale cruisers, set against a picture postcard backdrop of snow-tipped mountains. It claims to have the best (and cheapest) lobster soup in town and I would have to agree with that. As I devoured the rich, creamy broth it was impossible not to fall for the charms of the shack. Inside, my two obsessions collided (thankfully, not literally)...

Inside The Sea Baron. Twisted blue jumper by Velour worn with Liberty print Bracknall shirt by b Store. 

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Haider at Hostem

As pointed out in the recent men's issue of Interview, Haider Ackermann is having a moment. Since debuting his first collection in 2002, the design talent has boasted a small but devoted following but within the last few seasons, the larger fashion crowd has finally begun to catch on. The presentation of his womenswear pre-collection and S/S 11 menswear debut was undoubtedly a moment and I consider myself so fortunate to have witnessed it. It was a visual feast packed full of surprises. Memories of it still excite me today. Ackermann hosted a lavish evening of fashion, performance and celebration in the deserted Palazzo Corsini on the edge of the Arno river in Florence. In a wonderfully unique combination of the baroque surroundings and the true bohemian spirit of Haider, guests enjoyed a champagne reception and exotic fruits, followed by a piano concert and then fashion parade in a chandelier lit courtyard.

Entitled �A Carte Blanche named "Opium", the spectacular showcase was a romantic homage to a travelling woman and her man alone in the deserted Palazzo, channeling a gypsy spirit of North Africa. The menswear itself was a complete surprise. With a womenswear line known for sensual, attenuated androgyny we expected more of the same for his debut menswear offering. Instead we were treated to an array of embroidered textiles and textures reminiscent of a grungier Dries Van Noten. With so much of fashion shifting towards a form of minimalism, Haider Ackermann's embroidery-encrusted jackets and patched jacquards were a pleasant surprise. Ackermann used fabrics and textiles that I wanted to reach out, manhandle and steal. Despite being universally applauded, in December the in demand designer announced that he would not produce another collection until he felt suitably compelled.'Creativity cannot be forced into a time frame' he uttered and now...we wait longingly for the next instalment. However, as we (im)patiently wait we can, thanks to a small selection of key stores, buy in to Haider Ackerman's male wardrobe. Earlier this week I popped in to Hostem as this enclave on Shoreditch�s Redchurch Street now boasts a well selected rail of the designer's debut. It was great to take a closer look at the collection to remind myself that I for one would like to join Ackermann's nomadic tribe...

Just a few of the pieces that caught my wanting eye inside Hostem.

Having been fortunate enough to watch the debut presentation in person, it was an absolute pleasure to inspect the finished designs on the shop floor.

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Sruli Recht AW11 When Gravity Fails

The Sruli Recht studio is a cross-discipline practice caught somewhere between product design, tailoring and shoe making. Based in Reykjav�k, the studio instantly rose to notoriety as it began in 2008 to produce one �non-product� every month� from umbrellas to bulletproof scarves, tables, to belts and boots, and incorporating such materials as concrete, diamonds, skin and wool. Now, I have to confess that somehow the label eluded me but not so the blogging oracle that is Susie. Back in July 2007 she wrote a piece about her love of his footwear designs and has kept an eye on the studio's output ever since. So, when we saw his name on the Reykjavik Fashion Festival and discovered that he would be presenting his debut menswear collection her enthusiasm was infectious and my expectations were high. On the opening night of the festival, Recht managed to blow me away. As a live drummer provided a percussion pulse, Recht's men paraded a collection of carefully crafted draped pieces that echoed the rawness of the Icelandic landscape. 

In the space of a few minutes my blogging highlight of my Icelandic trip was revealed. Despite enthusiastically snapping away from my prime vantage point, due to the height of the catwalk I am not entirely happy with my show photography but fortunately I can share Marin� Thorlacius' stunning look book imagery with you. The collection consists of a total look - from coats, jackets and cardigans, to trousers, shorts and leggings, all complimented by shoes, boots, bags, gloves and silver jewellery. There are fifty five styles, with approximately one hundred and thirty material variations...

Photographer - Marin� Thorlacius 

Model - Emil ��r Gu�mundsson

Stylist - Arash Arfazadeh

Recht and his team have spent the last year taming these wild and fantastic natural Icelandic materials for a total look collection that will seduce the international market. The design talent worked very closely with Atlantic Leather, a tannery in the north of Iceland run by the native Icelanders, working with an array of raw skins to make new materials, designing new leathers and experimenting with treatments and finishes. The entire collection showcases leathers from horse, hunted wild reindeer, birds, fish and lamb. However, the two showpieces are particularly special...

 

Show Piece One - �Icarus, post-crash�
Twenty one Svartfugl [blackbirds] on a hunted wild reindeer base. The garment literally designed itself after the hunters placed catch on the table, all that was left was for them to be sewn together. Body to body to back to wing they were attached the wild reindeer base.

Show Piece Two - �Born out of this�
Twenty seven still born lambs, three regular lambs, military deadstock lining. Pieced together, these almost once vessels, together now one, and draped as a single square, and a sleeve, and a pleated set/raglan hybrid, with darted shaping.

Similarly, the collection uses Icelandic wool and Recht has worked with a local knit producer to create their own knit constructions. In fact, about ninety eight per cent of the collection is made from Icelandic materials, and material that Recht has in some way developed in the studio. The other two per cent is the jersey that has to be imported because it just isn�t made in Iceland.

As with everything Recht has created before, the collection is completely intuitive and free whilst still being very dimensional and formed. His debut menswear offering is entirely draped, mostly from single pieces. There was absolutely no design sketching, instead the designer worked the fabric on half sized mannequins and 3D sketched fabrics direct on to form. The result is a collection that strikes the covetable balance between construction and freedom. During my time in Reykjav�k I was fortunate enough to meet the designer at his studio and retail space and I will happily relay what I learnt over the coming days but until then, I hope you enjoy the look book.

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In discussion: Unsung designers and labels

You might recall that during the latter half of last year we sparked off a series of monthly discussions around a given subject, for example 'Tell us about your most stylish moment and the most stylish man you've ever met,' and so on. Over the last few months this feature has been on the blogging sidelines but we'd like to continue the chat around menswear and would love for you all to take part. To begin with we thought it would be nice to afford a little attention to the unsung designers and labels. Helping to kick start the conversation, we have asked a selection of our favourite menswear personalities to real a few of their neglected favourites.

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Each season the same few (designers) are talked about. Who do you think deserves a little more love, old and/or new and why?

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"You have posed an interesting question, loaded with both the pro and against argument in relation to how designers are being forced to work today. �Each season the same few (designers) are talked about. Who do you think deserves a little more love, old and/or new and why?'

As the Internet�s role in the communication of fashion remains imperative, surely there is room for every designer to remain in the spotlight � no matter how bright it may shine. There are of course � and always have been � certain magazines/websites with certain aesthetics (and political leanings) that limit the selection of designers they can laud. To talk of Katie Eary�s shiny plastic wit next to Margaret Howell�s reserved, paper-cotton shirts would rightly seem at odds with any sort of editorial stance.

There is space for new designers and the unsung to establish room for themselves. Any designer working today needs to understand the role of self-promotion as much as they understand the construction of a peacoat and it is true that this way of thinking is creating a generation of 'jack of all trades' designers, unable to create collections inspired by experiences and feelings alone; forcing an allegiance with whichever style tribe seems affluent.

Who deserves a little more love? Tim Soar's collections are beautiful, but I feel not 'London' enough to survive here - his aesthetic, fabric choices and cut all deserve a more refined palette and customer than the trend-hungry fashionistos of London who do not make up a large enough consumer base to justify excessive press attention.

Ian Batten is also the maker of wonderful wardrobe staples, great chord trousers and good solid jackets but he chooses to remain away from the press machine and humdrum of Fashion Week. Who�s at fault? The designers who deserve more attention are the ones who ultimately do little more than create great collections, to encourage it. It's up to the Editors and journalists to seek out good design, not the other way around."

Dal Chodha, writer, editor and consultant.

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"Damir Doma! One of my favourite designers and someone that really does not receive the attention he deserves (although he was admittedly a finalist for the 2010 Swiss Textiles Awards). In just a few years he has come to define and present a confident and personal aesthetic that I find myself relating to in an incredibly intimate manner, not only stylistically but also from a cultural standpoint. His Spring/Summer 2011 collection was actually my favourite collection since the final collection Miyashita showed for Number (N)ine. I am also quite the fan of his Silent line of organic basics - the quality and price are hard to match.

In terms of older names, I am thinking about comebacks that seem to have been slightly overlooked - Alexandre Plokhov and Josephus Thimister. I think Plokhov's return was certainly on a par with the best of Cloak, although I suppose it remains to be seen how good the pieces are once they actually hit the stores. And I thought Thimister was absolutely beautiful, even if the womenswear looks trumped the menswear!"

Dapper Kid, blogger.

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"Old: The 90s have affixed quite a stigma on Giorgio Armani, with the silhouette of his relaxed suit overused and widely mis-worn. But seeing him put forth updated versions of this relaxed suit in fresher fabrics and in slightly more modern shapes these past few seasons makes me convinced that I need one in my life. There is an effortless, timeless elegance in wearing a divinely dark Armani suit; I'd like one in drapey navy wool please, to be worn shirtless with vintage oxfords!

New: A new favorite of mine is From Britten, by Melbourne brothers Tim and Alex Britten, who I had the privilege of interviewing recently. (The feature will be up soon!) I love the way they expertly reinvent menswear classics, making them fresh and strikingly modern, without being too gimmicky. Their thorough and exhaustive process of creating their pieces is so refreshing in this day and age of fast fashion. They are most definitely one of the best new talents in menswear today."

The Dandy Project, blogger.

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Is there a designer or label that you think deserves more attention? Who are your unsung designer heroes? Do let us know below...

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Is Joseph Gordon-levitt Gay

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Lil Wayne Pictures Without Dreads

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